SSDiesel Supply™ - Frequently Asked Questions
Here are answers to some of the most common questions we've been asked over the years.
If you don't find your answer below, please contact us for assistance.
Frequently Asked Questions
I have a farm and have agricultural diesel fuel on the premises. Someone told me running this red-dyed fuel will not work in a 6.5 because of the optical sensor in the electronic DS4 pump. Is this true?
Answers to Frequently Asked Questions
If you have a 94+ 6.5 with electronic fuel injection, you must use a resistor. Stock is a #5 plus/minus one. With no resistor in place, the computer will default to a #1 setting to keep running, but performance and mileage will suffer.
No. Changing the resistor will not affect any of the computer settings, just alter the fuel rate.
Only 1/2 true. To prompt an "instant" recognition of the new resistor, a "TDC learn" procedure will need to be initiated with a Tech 2 scanner. BUT, the PCM will automatically check resistor value every 50th keystart of the engine, and make the necessary adjustments in fuel rate.
The resistor fine tunes the injection pump much like the adjusting screw did on older non-electronic pumps. The resistors are available in values 1-9. Stock being a #5. Diesel enthusiasts have known since 1994 that the #9 increases fuel rate by 6% over the stock #5 and everyone knows that with diesels, more fuel equals more hp. The beauty of the #9 is that due to increased operating efficiencies, it will also usually produce better mileage too, if driven sensibly.
As long as you install it with a fresh PMD, as in our "kit" version, yes it will. A cooler alone will not fix an already toasted PMD, just prevent it from happening again. You will need a new PMD.
The PMD itself does not have a failure (DTC) code of its own. If no "check engine" light is coming on and you are exhibiting the symptoms outlined on our FSD Heat-SyncTM products page, it is better then 99.9% a failing PMD. But if the light is coming on, we will need to read those stored codes to make a final assessment.
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No. Our location does not need an extension. The harness fits perfectly with no stress or strain on the wires. We only offer an extension ssd-9908 for the rare occasion when the stock harness is tangled around an injection tube and the installer does not have the patience to untangle.
Unless it has a serpentine belt drive, it will not. Early v-belt drive 6.2's spin the water pump CW rotation, serpentine belt drive spins CCW, and the pump and fan will not work properly.
It's possible, but you will need to eliminate some other possibilities first. Check supply pump pressure. You can test by installing a test gauge on the fuel/water drain line off the t-handled valve near the thermostat. Open the valve and read the pressure. It should be 3-5 psi from idle thru full throttle. If not, check the supply pump and/or oil pressure switch. The OPS switch is what turns the pump on and off. Check the glow plug operation also for hard starting. The hard cold starting may also result however from the supply pump pressure being low.
It is a possibility, but it is most likely a boost pressure problem. Check your boost pressure. If stock (no chip or other mods) it should be 7-9 psi under hard acceleration, 0-3 psi cruising at 65mph. If not, check the wastegate actuator, solenoid and vacuum pressure. Vacuum at the actuator should be 15" while idling
No, but I do have a solution. Our Glow Plug Over-Ride Kit ssd-009 allows complete manual control of the plugs for you to select how long they stay on. Just make sure you don't have AC 9g glow plugs (92 and earlier). They will burn up quickly. Later 11g and 60g or my Instant-Heat plugs will work great as they are self regulating and will not burn up.
Yes, a perfect fit! And yes, your truck will start like summertime all year round!
Yes, you can, but I don't recommend it and it will void its warranty. I have done extensive testing under the hood in different locations, and our location shown is by far the coolest running. The PMD runs about 30 degrees cooler in the airstream on the manifold then even the firewall.
Several customers have notched it out to fit around my cooler, but I suggest leaving it off for increased airflow over the injection pump.
No diesel should run over 210 degrees for any length of time. The early 6.5's were prone to overheating due to an undersized water pump. Our Cooling System Upgrade Kit will solve that problem. It increases water flow significantly and provides a dual thermostat housing to handle it. See our item description for more details. If towing, I also recommend our Fan Upgrade Kit. It will increase airflow by 30%.
I have a farm and have agricultural diesel fuel on the premises. Someone told me running this red-dyed fuel will not work in a 6.5 because of the optical sensor in the electronic DS4 pump. Is this true?
That is pure myth! I spoke directly with Stanadyne about this subject and they claim agricultural red fuel will work perfectly in a DS4 pump. Keep in mind it is illegal to run on any highway with red fuel however. Off road use only!
10-20 minutes depending on skill level, using basic hand tools.
Yes, we make a special version for the H1 Hummer and G/P vans using the rear-mounted turbo. Its p/n ssd-001. Check my product listing.
No, any "reman" DS4 thru current 5521 will work perfectly. Once rebuilt, only the latest version parts are used, and all are interchangeable. Only the 1994 5068 is unique.
No, nothing is required. The PMD was just mounted to a slab of aluminum on the side of the pump, and the screw holes are "blind" holes, they do not enter the pump and no fuel leakage will occur.
If you have bad motor mounts you had better replace them asap for more reason then just a rubbing fan!!! Trimming a fan is dangerous at best, have seen them explode into shrapnel when that is done. By reducing fan size, you are defeating most of the benefits of having a larger fan to begin with! And the shroud is plenty large enough to fit the fan. Only slight trimming is necessary on applications where the shroud was not installed exactly concentric with the water pump shaft. A couple minutes work is well worth the benefit!
Max Boost is 15 psi sustained boost, and 17 psi max short term. EGT 1100 DF with the probe installed pre-turbo. Max Tranny temp is 240 DF.
Not likely defective plugs. Our failure rate is .00007%. And the chances of having 8 defective plugs on the same engine are a billion to one. Here are some causes of multiple plug failures. 1) a faulty glow plug controller/relay, 2) the use of ether, even once, 3) starting your truck while connected to a battery charger, 4) jump starting your truck from another running vehicle, 5) improper use of a manual glow plug controller, 5) Advanced injection timing
If an electronic injected 1994+, timing is a program in the ECM. It can only be checked and set using a TECH 2 scanner made by Vetronix. Neither a Snap-On, Mac nor OTC can do it, TECH 2 only. Set base timing to 3.5 degrees with the stepper motor disabled via the TECH 2. Then, perform a "TDC Learn" procedure and set "TDC offset" to -.25 to -.75. One tip..."desired" timing must read ZERO in order to set "actual" timing to 3.5. If not ZERO, you skipped a step and timing cannot be set
If a 92-93 with mechanical injection, yiu must use a Kent-Moore Tach-n-Time or aka. a "magnetic pickup dynamic timing meter" and set timing to 3.0.
It will fit up to a 168.5" wheelbase truck which should include your crewcab long box, But to be certain, measure your wheelbase and if 168.5" or less, its will fit. Wheelbase is wheel center to wheel center front to rear.
Pre-turbo is most accurate. Simple to do in minutes. Remove your air filter for easy access and drill a hole and tap for 1/8" female pipe thread just below the turbo mounting flange into the exhaust manifold. The probe harness will reach perfectly even with pillar mounted gauges.
Simple. Drill with the engine idling, so the chips blow out, rather then drop inside.
Its best in the upper intake manifold section. Remove the upper intake (6 bolts and a clamp) and drill a hole and tap for 1/8" female pipe thread anywhere convenient for you in that section.
Most 4L80E trannys have a 1/8" test plug on the side of the tranny for a technician to measure pump pressure. Just unscrew the plug and screw in the probe. It can also be mounted into the tranny pan or in a tee connection on a cooling line.
Everytime the light comes on it stores a code as to why. The codes are called DTC codes (Diagnostic Trouble Codes). You must read them and tell me the code NUMBERS that come up so I can help. A 94-95 can be read easily yourself with our ssd-7739 Code Retrieval Key. Check further in this FAQ sections for instructions. If you have a 96 or newer, you'll need a simple codes reader like our ssd-9125 also in the "tools" section of this website.
Injectors have a design life of 100K miles. They are a routine maintenance item on all diesels. Symptoms are poor performance and poor mileage. Also hard smokey starting and knocking. We offer both stock and Marine Injectors for added performance and mileage.
Yes definately! When they wear out, they leak fuel into the cylinders washing lubricant off the pistons and cylinder walls causing catestrophic engine failure.
Injectors contain moving parts that wear and must be rebuilt or replaced every 100K miles. Cleaning only works on low mileage situations. If over 100K, just replace or rebuild them, don't mess around. How much money will you save by replacing the engine instead of injectors? Running injectors over 100K miles is like playing Russian Roulette with your engine.
Unfortunately you can't. our Marine injectors use the same body as stock injectors, so external appearance looks the same. Keep in mind with reman injectors only the body is used over, so it may say various things which mean nothing. Thats why its important to only buy from a reputable source so you can trust you get what you paid for. Most cheap ones you see for sale on auctions being sold by Bubba at Jim-Bob's auto supply at a deal are probably a scam. Remember you only get what you pay for.
This one is easy...Our reman injectors are built here in the USA by American workers earning a living wage with parts made here in the US. ALL NEW injectors today are built on foreign soil, most in India and Malaysia by housewives on an assembly line earning $.50/hour. New injectors, only one per batch of a thousand are tested. Reman injectors, every single one is tested twice, once by the mfg, and again by us as it ships.
Bosch for example used to be made in Germany and quality was great. Now they're also made in India ans quality has suffered. I know I would only want USA made injectors in my American made Detroit Diesel. With remans, only the body is used over, so they can say various brands on theoutside which mean nothing. Its what's inside that counts and these are Stanadyne remans, the best you can buy.
Only handle new injectors with very clean hands and leave the plastic caps on until ready to connect the steel tubes. A spec of dirt the size of this dot (.) will foul an injector and create a misfire and knock. Also, never bend the steel tubes, only gently move aside. If bent, the internal coating flakes off and will also foul an injector. If bent, throw it away and install new lines. Torque injectors to 44-60 ft/lbs. Injector tube connector fittings to 20 ft/lbs.
All our injectors are tested before shipping. When first started it will rattle like its gonna blow until all air is automatically bled. Let idle 20-30 minutes or until it clears up and idles smoothly before driving. If it continues, then the injectors have foreign material in them and will need to be professionally cleaned.
Yes! Clean the tubes throughly before installation. Use Safety-Kleen and then blow out with compressed air or shoot brake-clean thru each tube. Handle only with clean hands and install immediately after cleaning.
Your stock chip is inside the ECM and is easy to access. Its about a 15 minute job. Open the glovebox door and remove the liner (4 screws). You will see a silver box on the right, thats the ECM. Its held in place by snap clips. Pull it towards you with a sharp "jerk" and it will come free. Do NOT unplug any harnesses. Snake it out towards you and turn upside down. Open the trap door on the bottom and you will see the stock chip. We need the alpha code (not numeric) from the top of the chip. It starts with a "B" and some examples are BMRL, BPAA, BPAC, BXRL to name only a few. We need this code along with your year, model, 2x4 or 4x4, auto or std tranny, and the 8th digit of your VIN code (S or F), also 40hp or 80hp desired. Enter this data on the comments section of your web order, or give to our order desk when placing an order by phone.
There is a metal tag rivited to the pump on the side facing the firewall. It can be read easily on the vehicle with a small inspection mirror and a flashlight. The code to watch for is 5068 as that indicates the oddball pump. If in doubt, write tech support with all the numbers on that tag, and we will advise what pump you need.
I look at it this way. Remember back a few years when VCR's first came out and there was VHS and BETA? VHS won out and BETA was dropped. Same with the 5067 and 5068. The 5068 was dropped.
The difference is only in how they communicate with the ECM. They otherwise are physically idenical to the naked eye. They will not interchange however.
Probably just an air pocket from improper filling. To fill properly, engine stone cold, open the brass air bleeder screw on the thermostat housing and fill the reservoir with 50/50 coolant until coolant flows freely from the bleeder. Pay no attention to the graduations on the reservoir, its only full when fluid flows from the bleeder. Close the bleeder and add one additional quart of coolant to the reservoir and cap off! Test and replace the reservoir cap regularily. This fill and bleed procedure is critical to proper operation.
Red antifreeze is called Dexcool trademarked by GM. Its supposed to give longer life, but actually has the opposite effect. There are class action law suites open right now from folks who damaged their engines from it. It turns to mud after a while. My advice, flush it out and go with good ole GREEN antifreeze mixed 50/50. Add a bottle of "Water Wetter" by Redline and you'll have the best coolant available today.
Yes, I recommend "Water Wetter" by Redline p/n ssd-0213 for the coolant system. You will see a noticible difference in coolant temps. For fuel, I recommed K100-D as sold on the website. It will add years to your injection system and also raises centane levels for more power and better mileage. I have sworn by it for over 20 years
Use only a good diesel rated such as Shell Rotella-T 15w40 as a great std lube, or Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 oil. Never use a gasoline rated oil such as 10w30. It must be diesel rated. The Shell products mentioned are the best made in my opinion. Our ssd-2310 oil filter also is the best filter I've found to handle the soot of a diesel. I wouldn't run anything else!
Locate the "Data Link" (ADL) connector below the steering wheel on the rim of the dash. With the key in the "OFF" position, insert our Code Reader ssd-3123. Turn the key to the "RUN" position, but DO NOT START. The check engine light will begin flashing a sequence of codes. If the diagnostics are working and there are no codes in memory, a code 12 will flash 3 times. A code 12 is a flash once, followed by a quick flash two times. Basically a 1-2 flash is a code 12. If no codes, only the 12 will flash. If codes present, the sequence will start with the 12, then flash each code 3 times before moving onto the next in numerical order. When 12 flashes again, you are done. Again, count the flashes and write them down, they will flash 3 times each code. To clear the codes, depress the brake pedel and accelerator pedel simultaniously for 15 seconds while still in diagnostic mode. NOW shut off the key and remove the Code Reader. The codes are now cleared. NEVER-EVER remove the Code Reader while still in the diagnostic mode, turn key to off first. NEVER-EVER start the truck with the Code Reader in place. ECM damage may result. Let me know the code numbers that came up along with symptoms and I will help you diagnose your truck.
You will need a simple code reader like our ssd-9125 in the "tools" category on this website. Insert into the ADL plug and follow the included instructions. Then let me know what codes come up along with symptoms and I'll help you diagnose your truck.
No!! Everytime that light comes on it stores a code in memory until YOU clear its memory. Just read the codes by the above procedures and let me know what numbers come up along with your symptoms and I'll help you diagnose your truck.
A "C" truck is a 2 wheel drive pick-up, a "K" truck is a 4 wheel drive pick-up.
A "G" van is an Express or Savanna van. A "P" truck is a big box truck with either a van-looking front end, or square front-end like a Snap-On tool truck or Motorhome.
We don't because we only sell products that work! Boost controllers are a hoax designed to make your wallet lighter. Raising boost only has one purpose...to allow more fuel to be burned. Just raising boost alone does nothing, it just adds air! No hp gain!! You must also add fuel at the same time as raising boost to make hp. On a 92-93 truck, you can adjust the manual injection pump. On a electronic 94-95 you need a power chip to raise boost and add fuel. On a 96 and newer truck, you need to reprogram the ECM to achieve more boost and fuel. No other way! Boost controllers just don't work! We can help you achieve power on all year 6.5s. Our ssd-chip for 94-95 trucks, and our upgrade ECM exchange for 96+ trucks is available under the "performance" section of this website.
Here is what to expect as normal when starting a cold 6.5
60 degrees F overnight...15 seconds of white smoke and chugging
50 degrees F overnight...20 seconds of white smoke and chugging
40 degrees F overnight...30 seconds of white smoke and chugging
30 degrees F and lower, the block heater MUST be plugged in 6-8 hours prior starting
If what you experience is within the above range, all is normal. If not, contavct Tech Support.
Yes!! Since 2007 in the US, the refinerys have switched over from standard diesel fuel to the new Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel (ULSD) Fuel to meet the new federal emissions. It has its drawbacks like dropping mileage about 1-2 mpg.
Yes it may unless a good fuel treatment is used in every tank like K-100D Diesel Fuel Treatment. The new fuel does not lubricate as well and without a good conditioner as a supplement, injection pump and injector wear may occur prematurely.
As per Stanadyne the manufacturer of the injection pump, running more then 5% Biodiesel or Veggie Oil will void the warranty and may damage the injection pump.
No! All our pumps are test run on a pump dyno after rebuilding. Code 34 is an installation error. Code 34 (or 216 on 96+ trucks) trips when you do not have the pump properly centered for the stepper motor to adjust timing per the ECM's command. You have it turned too far to the right or left and Its too far out of range for the stepper motor to set timing. Simple fix. If no Tech 2 scanner available, simply scribe a line on the pump and housing for a reference mark. Now loosen and rotate the pump in "hair" incriments at a time until code 34 no longer sets. Never rotate the pump with the engine running. Once code 34 no longer sets, the stepper motor is back in range and timing is correct.
Check the p/n on the box. If the second digit of the p/n is a "4", its stainless steel and correct. 409 stainless steel is slightly magnetic and has a brownish tint to it. Its what 99% of all stainless exhaust systems are made of and very durable. For example, the same system in polished 304 stainless would cost over $1500, and only used on "show trucks".
Only Military vehicles used 24 volt glow plugs. ALL civilian trucks are 12 volt. 2-12 volt batteries wires in parallel are still 12 volt. Only if wired in series like in Military vehicles, will produce 24 volts. If you have a Military vehicle, you would know it.
EVERYONE'S mileage recently dropped by 2-3 mpg due to all fuel suppliers switching to "Winter-Blend" diesel fuel. Winter-Blend fuel is less likely to gel and gives easier cold weather starting, but hp and especially mileage will suffer.
Our warranty policy is published on our website and likewise how to return something under warranty for repair. Please click on the warranty/policy tab on the left hand tool bar.
No, turbos rotate at 250,000 rpm and use non-contact type bearings. Engine oil pressure centers the shaft. If the shaft was tight, it would not be able to achieve warp speed as it does.Slight play is normal.
No, that is one of the features of using 409 stainless pipes, it contains a small iron content which allows you to use standard steel rod or standard wire in a MIG.
Because it will not last there! We have the solution to make your PMD last the life of the truck, just install and maintain as per the instructions.
We have done the research years ago and our location works best. It's not engine heat that kills PMDs, it has nothing to do with it. Its the PMD's own internal heat that must be drawn away and dissipated. The PMD contains 2-500 watt transistors that get hot enough to fry an egg, literally. To survive, a PMD must be properly mounted to a adequately sized mass of aluminum and contain at least 120 sq/in of fin surface area and be installed in a constant air flow. Our unit does just that.
Any other location and especially the bumper only has air flow while driving 20 mph or more. Idling it will overheat and fry the PMD.
Also, you can only extend the PMD harness 8" maximum. The signal that travels between PMD and pump is in milliamps and very sensitive to cable length (resistance). The result of a long extension is drivability problems and short PMD and injection pump life. This is why GM originally installed the PMD on the pump, it must be that close.
No need to re-invent the wheel, it's already made. Our unit properly installed and maintained will last the life of the truck. We are so confident of this we warranty our FSD Heat Sync kits ssd-006 and ssd-001 for LIFE!
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